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Running electrical cable is simple in theory: pull it through holes in the framing
from a junction box to the service panel. However,
actually getting cable to cooperate can be difficult and time consuming. So it
helps to apply some creativity and patience. Double-check
with your circuit diagrams before running any cable. Also see if you can double
up runs anywhere by pulling two cables at once. In a new house or a major remodeling project, cable and boxes are "roughed-in" before the walls are insulated and drywalled.
For terms and definitions see Electrical Glossary. Hanging Boxes & Drilling Holes
You
can use a scrap piece of drywall to set boxes out the right distance. Some
boxes even have a pre-formed 1/2" reference line for quick installation. Next, drill holes in the framing for the cables. Most rooms have an attic above them or a basement below. Drilling holes so cable runs horizontally through joists is usually easiest.
Codes require that holes be 1 1/4" from both edges of studs which puts them right in the middle of a 2 x 4. Where
lines are too close to framing edges, add protective metal cover plates to prevent
nails from puncturing wires and pipes. Drilling holes through ceiling joists and wall plates will be a bit harder and that's where the right-angle drill is really handy.
Pulling Cable
To
do this, leave the box/spool of cable at the last fixture, unwind enough
cable to complete the run and then start pulling it through the holes. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable is used most of the time. It can tangle or bind once in a while. If you feel a lot of resistance while pulling, the cable is probably kinked and needs to be straightened out somewhere along the run.
A special tool called a "fish tape" can also be fed through holes, hooked to new cable, and pulled back to retrieve it. Each
time you reach a junction box, pull a couple extra feet of cable through
for making connections later. On
long runs, you may have to go back to the box/spool a few times to feed more cable
through. That's when two people really save time: one feeding cable and one pulling
cable. Once the cable reaches the service panel, leave a foot or so of extra length on both the service end and the box/spool end for connecting.
Also label each cable end with a felt pen or piece of tape to keep them organized. Remember,
when the rough-in is done an inspection is needed, so schedule it accordingly
to avoid downtime. After the inspection, drywall and paint, you're ready to install the switches, outlets and light fixtures. | |||
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Mount junction boxes for the outlets, lights and switches. Each box should stick
out a little past the framing so its front will be flush with -- or set back just
a fraction from -- the drywall. 
A
heavy-duty right-angle drill with a 1" bit is a good tool of choice. Wall
holes drilled at about knee-height will be just right.
The traditional way to pull cable is to start at the last fixture in the
run, pull cable to each fixture in the circuit, and continue all the way back
to the service panel. 
If
you're replacing old cable, you can often twist the ends of new and old
wires together, wrap them with electrical tape, and pull the old cable out of
the wall until the new cable appears. 
After
the cable is in place, fasten it to framing with brackets -- called staples
-- every 4 1/2', at turns, and where cable enters a box.