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There are no hard-and-fast steps for installing light fixtures. Most new lights
have diagrams and instructions which you should read over at least once before
you get started. In
an add-on situation, you can run a new circuit. Or, you can draw power from an
existing circuit. But too many devices can constantly trip a breaker so figure
the circuit's load capacity before adding a light. A
big installation battle is just getting fixtures mounted properly. Normally, an
extra cross brace is nailed up during the framing process. If you're retro-fitting, you may have to tear out some wallboard to add extra bracing, or settle for locating the fixture's box on the nearest stud or joist.
Retro-fitting Recessed Lights
For
this project, we purchased a recessed fixture with a mounting bracket designed
to fit through the hole. Use the light's housing as a guide to mark the hole. Then use a keyhole saw to cut the hole.
Mark the location of the fixture. We ran incoming power directly to the light fixture then ran cable down to the switch to make a loop.
Use
small mounting clips included with the light to fasten it slightly recessed
from the surface of the drywall. Paint the area before putting in the reflector shield and bulb if you can. Then snap the shield into place.
We'll
describe a few ways to mount a fan, but almost all of them need a special ceiling
fan-rated junction box anchored to a ceiling joist. Determine
the location of the fan, usually in the center of the room. If you can't alter
the location to be next to a joist, nail up a cross brace between the joists. Nail
up a junction box so it will set flush with the ceiling drywall. Then run the
incoming power cable, leaving about 1' of extra cable for connections. Hang
drywall if needed at this point. Careful of the electrical cable, cut out around
the outside edges of the box then finish anchoring the drywall. Use
a step ladder to rest the fan on and fasten the mounting bracket to the junction
box. Connect the respective cable and fan wires together, securing each pair with
a wire connector. Lift the fan into position (make sure the decorative cover is on), fasten it to the mounting bracket, and slide on the decorative cover.
Orient
the track so the bulbs will face objects you want to light at about a 30°
angle. If
you aren't replacing an existing ceiling light, you'll have to install a new junction
box and run switched power to the box on a new cable. Usually, a light kit will have connecting wires, but you can also make them. Cut a piece of cable long enough to tie in with the source cable and reach the track terminals.
Feed the wire ends through the fixture's mounting plate and fasten it to the box.
Hook up the ground wire to the fixture's base plate. Strip the hot and neutral
wires and secure them to the respective track terminals. Then attach each light fixture onto the track. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, but some fixtures snap on and others attach with a bracket. | |||
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Usually recessed lights are installed after framing and before drywall. Sometimes
that step is forgotten or you may want to retro-fit a recessed light to enhance
a room's lighting scheme. 
To
mount the light, slip the frame brackets up into the opening. Position
the fixture to set flush with the bottom of the wood framing. Fasten the frame
to the joists by pounding in the metal teeth on its supporting arms. 
How a ceiling fan is mounted depends on the model. Always follow the manufacturer's
instructions. 
Track lighting can add beauty and flexibility to a room's design scheme and it's
fairly easy to install a new fixture on a finished ceiling. 
Strip
the cable and connect each wire to its source cable mate. Cap the connections
with wire connectors and fold them in the box. 
Feed
the ends through the track opening at the terminals. Secure the track to the ceiling,
either by screwing into the ceiling joists or using molly/toggle bolts.