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When
you shut off a breaker or pull a fuse, post a message at the service panel (or
fuse box) notifying others so they don't try to restore power while you're working.
Also, replace any device (i.e. switch, outlet) with one having the same number of terminals and power rating -- unless you know the original device was wrong for the job.
On
its back side, an outlet is rated for voltage and amperage (125 volts and
15 amps is most common). Make sure to get a replacement with the same ratings.
Turn
off the circuit breaker that controls the outlet. Test that the power is off by
sticking both circuit tester probes in the outlet slots of each socket. No light
means the power is off. Take
off the cover plate. Just to be safe, test the circuit again. This time, touch
the probe to the screw terminals on both sides where the wires are attached. Start
with the top set of screws, and then test the bottom set. No light means no power,
so the outlet is safe to work on. Next,
unscrew the outlet and pull it out of the wall box by the mounting tabs. The wires
should unfold and stretch out so you can access them. A
grounded outlet has a round hole on the face in addition to the two slots.
If there are three holes in the outlet face, there should be three wires attached
to the outlet. The
black (hot) and white (neutral) wires carry the current, and the copper wire is
the ground. Note that the outlet's screw terminals are certain colors. The white wire goes on the silver screw. The bare copper or green wire goes on the green screw. And the black wire gets attached to the brass screw.
Make
a note of how the wires are arranged and unscrew them. Bend each wire in a clockwise
direction. Hook them around the new outlet's terminals so when the screws tighten,
the wire pulls inward for a better connection Screw the wires onto the new terminals, carefully push the outlet back into the box so the wires don't kink and tighten down the mounting screws and cover plate.
It's
not necessary to understand the whole theory of how a three-way switch system
is wired. But it's important to remember which wire was connected to the common
screw of the old switch. Before
doing any electrical work, turn off the circuit. Double-check it with a circuit
tester to make sure that it's dead. Put
one test lead on the ground (copper or green color) wire or box if it's metal,
and the other test lead on the hot wire, then the neutral wire. If the light stays
off, the circuit is dead. Take
off the cover plate and unscrew the switch from the box. It's easy to identify
a three-way switch because it has three screws (two brass and one dark).
Pull
the switch out and label the wire hooked to the dark "common" screw. Unhook
the old switch and hook up the new one: ground wire pigtailed to the box, travelers
to the light-colored screws (interchangeable), and most important, the labeled
wire to the darker "common" screw. Fold the wires back in the box, attach the switch to the box, and put on the cover plate.
If
the problem remains, take apart the socket. Most sockets have a "PRESS" mark stamped
into the upper cover. Squeeze the cover there, and work it off. Remove
the insulating cardboard sleeve. Check the wire connections. If they look good,
the next thing to troubleshoot is the cord. Remove the wires from the screw terminals, noting how they're connected. If there's a silver wire and a copper wire, the copper goes on the brass screw. If both leads are copper, the lead with the ridge on the side of the insulation goes to the brass screw.
If
there's continuity in the cord, replace the inner socket. Be sure to get a replacement
that matches the original. We also add an "underwriters" knot that protects the new leads from being yanked off the terminals.
Put the socket inside the sleeve, and the sleeve inside the cover. Push the cover
back down on the base and orient the switch in the desired direction. If the lamp still doesn't work, it's a good idea to have a professional take a look at it.
For basic flat cords, you can use a "quick-connect" plug. The plug pulls
apart by squeezing the prongs together.
Feed the end of the plug through the back of the cover. Spread the prongs apart
and insert the wire into the back of the core.
Squeeze the prongs together. They have small metal spikes that penetrate the cord's
insulation to make contact with the copper wires inside. Slide the cover down onto the core to complete the job. For a little stronger connection, use a plug with screw terminals.
Hook
each lead to fit around the screw terminals and attach the lead
that has a ridge on the insulation to the silver terminal.
If the screws aren't color-coded, this lead goes to the wider plug prong. Work the cover back down over the core.
Cut
off the old plug and strip the ends of the wire. Many cords have an outer sheathing
of insulation. Strip it back about 1 1/2" with a utility knife and cut off the
excess. Strip about 3/4" off the end of each lead. Feed the cord through the plug's back cover and connect the wires. The plug terminals are located in the back.
Finally, put the cover over the plug and screw down the cord clamp. | |||
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More How-To Information: | |||
This section explains how to repair some common household electrical problems. Remember, always make sure the circuit you'll be working on is shut off. 
Outlets (receptacles) have to withstand the wear and tear of yanking cords out
of the sockets. If an outlet is loose, or anything that's plugged into it flickers
on and off, it's time to be replaced. 
If
the terminals aren't easy to identify by color, the ground terminal may be marked
with a "GR." Also, the white wire goes to the side with the longer slot
on the face. And the black wire always goes to the short slot side. 
Electricians
get many repair calls when a homeowner has wired a three-way switch incorrectly.
Or, an old three-way switch has been accidentally replaced with a single-pole
switch, which won't operate the light correctly. 
A common problem for lamps is a bad connection with the bulb and contact tab in
the bottom of the socket. Make sure the lamp is unplugged. Use a screwdriver
tip to scrape off any corrosion, and then prying it up a little. 
Use
a continuity tester to check the cord. If there's a switch somewhere on
the lamp or cord, make sure it's "ON" when you test. 
Then
connect the wires to the new socket. Twist the bare ends of the wire, hook them
clockwise around the terminals and screw them down. 
The plug end of a lamp or appliance cord may pull lose of it's cord connection.
Replacement is fairly easy, however. 
Start
with a clean end on the cord -- sometimes called "zip cord" because the two side
pull apart easily. Strip about 3/4" off the end of the two wires and twist the
lead strands together tightly. 
Most cords with grounding plugs are molded right onto the cord end. However, they
can fray and work loose. If this happens, it's best to replace the plug. 
The
green (ground) lead goes to the green screw. The white (neutral) lead goes on
the silver terminal. The black lead goes around the brass screw.