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Framing or "rough carpentry" is the basic building skill of new construction and
almost every remodeling/addition project. This section explains the basics of
wood framing.
Lumber is by far the most popular construction framing material; because it's
readily available, easy to work with, and comparatively less expensive than other
framing materials. Douglas fir, pine and hemlock are some trees frequently used
to make framing lumber.
Materials such as steel, brick and concrete are also used to frame. These materials
can support more weight than wood framing, but are generally more costly and require
special equipment and skilled professionals. Building
Codes Building
codes have a lot to say about framing, because incorrect framing or the use of
the wrong materials can have a dramatic effect on the structural integrity of
a building and lead to a potentially dangerous situation. Where building is regulated
by code, any framing project will require a permit.
Codes regulate, among other things, the following: - ceiling
heights
- the
height of dropped interior soffits
- the
size of door openings
- the
width of hallways
- construction
of stairways
- maximum
percentage of a wall that can be glass
In
addition to building codes, you must also find out what local fire codes require
for a minimum window exit in bedrooms and other habitable rooms.
For work done under a permit, a framing inspection will be required. It is your
responsibility to arrange for it. Work that does not meet code can be ordered
ripped out. DOING
WORK WITHOUT A PERMIT IS NOT ONLY ILLEGAL, BUT MAY ALSO INVALIDATE YOUR HOMEOWNER'S
INSURANCE. Construction
Basics
By itself, a "piece" of framing is rather weak. It's only strong when connected
to the other framing pieces. For this reason, we use the term framing "member"
throughout this project.
For example, four framed walls are still unstable until the roof trusses or second-story
subfloor are tied in on top. That's why extra bracing is needed to support walls
during the framing process.
When you begin a framing project, it's critical that framing start out being
plumb/level/square. If the wall framing ends up running crooked, the finished
wall will run crooked. Check
each wall with a stringline from corner to corner at varying heights. If
a wall stud or two are warped or not flush, replace or adjust them. Check the
floors for level and give them a bounce to check for squeaks or needed bracing.
It's common sense, but if framed joints look tight, feel solid, and members run
true, the house will finish out better and be more structurally sound.
We've listed the basic framing members and their definitions to help you along
with the terms and jargon used throughout this project in Framing
Glossary.
Types
Of Framing We've
focused on Platform Framing for this how-to project. It's the most common
type used in residential construction. The subfloor sets flush on the foundation
walls and functions as a platform for the wall framing to set on.
Balloon Framing,
used from the mid-1800s to the1940s isn't commonly used anymore because the wall
studs run the entire height of a two-story house -- from the sill to the second-floor
top plate. Today, lumber that strong/long just isn't readily available.
Post-and-Beam Framing
utilizes notched sill beams that run on top of the foundation perimeter. Subfloor
joists set in the beam notches. A series of long vertical posts are set 6' to
8' apart and notched to support a second-floor subfloor plate. Framing
Tools List
- Framing
square
- Speed
square
- Framing
hammer (20 oz)
- Carpenter's
level
- Chalkline
- 25
ft. tape measure
| - Plumb
bob
- Sledgehammer
- Circular
saw (carbide-tipped)
- Reciprocating
saw
- Ladders
- Scaffolding
|
Consider renting
a pneumatic nailer if you have a sizable framing project. They cost around $150
per week and are a lot faster than a hammer. |